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Reading the lengthy and lovingly recorded descriptions of meals and wine services that Andrews recounts from his many trips in Europe and especially his beloved Los Angeles haunts of yesteryear (e.g. Ma Maison, Scandia). It's clear those days are gone forever--for better and worse. Hollywood brat (his father was a screenwriter), bon vivant, journalist-at-large, founding publisher (Saveur), Andrew is also the mystery gourmand and lover whom Ruth Reichl wriote about extensively in Comfort Me With Apples. On that subject--but little else-Andrews is a bit reticent.— From Carla's Picks
My Usual Table is a love letter to the great restaurants that have changed the way we eat-- from Trader Vic's to Chez Panisse and Spago to elBulli--and a vivid memoir of a life lived in food, from a founding editor of Saveur and James Beard Award winning writer Colman Andrews.
For reviewer, writer, and editor Colman Andrews, restaurants have been his playground, his theater, his university, his church, his refuge. The establishments he has loved have not only influenced culinary trends at home and abroad, but represent the changing history and culture of food in America and Western Europe. From his usual table, he has watched the growth of Nouvelle Cuisine and fusion cuisine; the organic and locavore movements; nose-to-tail eating; and so-called "molecular gastronomy."
In My Usual Table, Andrews interweaves his own story--from growing up in the sunset years of Hollywood's golden age to traveling the world in pursuit of great food--with tales of the restaurants, chefs, and restaurateurs who are emblematic of the revolutions great and small that have forever changed the way we eat, cook, and think about food.